THE RESPONSIBLE WAY TO A BEAUTIFUL LAWN
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Below you'll find answers to the most common questions you may have for Go Green Lawn Care.
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Q. Should I bag my grass clippings?
A. It is best to mulch the clippings. Grass clippings contain valuable nutrients that are recycled back into the lawn. Do not remove more than 1/3 of the grass blade in anyone mowing to avoid the clippings from adding to thatch.
Q. Can Go Green help me with the strange clumps of grass that grows taller than the rest of my lawn?
A. That undesirable grass is most likely Tall Fescue. Broadleaf weed control does not control grasses. There are no Selective Herbicides for grasses like Tall Fescue. The solution is to dig these undesirable grasses out and replace with seed or sod. Tall Fescue has a large root mass that will leave a hole that will need to be filled in with topsoil. If you choose to seed, it is best to take on this project in early September as it’s the best time of the year to seed.
Q. I already had my first application so why do I have weeds?
A. Your first application was a dormant feeding so there were no weeds to spray at that time. Now that it is warmer, lawns are waking up and weeds are beginning to emerge. We will be out soon for your next application that includes a blanket treatment of weed control.
Q. Why do I still have weeds in my lawn after my recent application?
A. There are several difficult to control weeds in Michigan. Chances are your lawn has one or more of these weeds. Our professional applicators are trained to note these weeds on the back of your invoice.
Q. I have moles in my lawn so does that mean I have grubs?
A. Not necessarily. Moles are insectivores and feed on all insects. Grubs are only on the menu in the spring and fall. If you have moles in the summer chances are the moles are feeding on earthworms.
Q. How do I get rid of moles?
A. Go Green does not apply mole control. We recommend contacting Critter Control.
A great D.I.Y. solution is to get a black bucket and mouse traps. Create a 2-3-inch hole in a tunnel and place 2 traps on two sides of the hole. Place the bucket upside down over the hole and both traps. Place a brick on the bucket to hold it in place. The black bucket will block out sunlight and the mole will crawl out of its tunnel and get trapped under the bucket. In the moles effort to escape from the bucket it will run into one of the mouse traps.
Q. Why does my grass always die in the shady areas of my lawn?
A. Grasses are sun-loving plants. Some varieties are shade-tolerant, but not shade-loving. Because of a lack of sunlight grasses in heavily shaded areas are weak with shallow root systems and are most susceptible to dieback from a lack of water, mold, and mildew. These areas require seeding every season to maintain even a moderate level of density. For this reason, it is a great idea to consider “shady lawn alternatives” like creating mulch beds and expanding existing mulch beds in areas that do not support grasses. Creating shade gardens in your back yard with mulch, bird baths & feeders, stone walkways, and there are many shade-loving ornamental plants that will grow in these shady conditions.
Q. Go Green applied Pre-emergent so why do I have Crabgrass.
A. Pre-emergent creates a barrier to block Crabgrass before it emerges from the soil. Extended periods of heat & drought stress, and soil disturbances from moles will breakdown this barrier and allow Crabgrass to emerge. Crabgrass is a heat-loving Summer Annual plant that is most likely to emerge in the “hot spots” of your lawn. Hot spots are those areas along driveways, sidewalks, south-face, and west-face slopes. Watering these areas between 10a.m. – 2p.m to cool down the soil is essential to extending the life of the pre-emergent barrier.
Q. My grass died in my shady back yard, should I sod my lawn?
A. NO! Grasses are sun-loving plants. Some varieties are shade-tolerant, but not shade-loving. Because of a lack of sunlight grasses in heavily shaded areas are weak with shallow root systems and are most susceptible to dieback from a lack of water, mold, and mildew. These areas require seeding every season to maintain even a moderate level of density. For this reason, it is a great idea to consider “shady lawn alternatives” like creating mulch beds and expanding existing mulch beds in areas that do not support grasses. Creating shade gardens in your back yard with mulch, bird baths & feeders, stone walkways, and there are many shade-loving ornamental plants that will grow well in these shady conditions. Grass from sod farms are not shade-tolerant. Sod is expensive, labor intensive to install and will quickly begin to dieback leaving you extremely disappointed. It is better to seed with a shade-tolerant seed mix.
Q. Should I dethatch my lawn?
A. Some thatch is beneficial to the lawn. A light layer of thatch moderates soil temperature and reduces evaporation of soil water. Too much thatch restricts air, water, and nutrients from reaching the soil. Dethatching tears out roots and causes stress and thins the lawn making it more susceptible to pest problems. Go Green recommends core aerating your lawn annually to control thatch in a healthy and less stressful manner. expensive, labor intensive to install and will quickly begin to dieback leaving you extremely disappointed. It is better to seed with a shade-tolerant seed mix.
Q. I have Dollar Spot disease in my lawn, does Go Green apply fungicide?
A. Go Green does not use fungicides for lawn diseases. Fungicides work best when applied as a preventative measure and not as a curative treatment. Diseases are not always a problem from year to year so we choose to not sell our customers a series of fungicides for a problem that may not occur. There are 3 factors that must be met for a disease to be active in your lawn. It is best to concentrate on promoting a healthy turf stand to reduce your lawns susceptibility to disease problems, and educating our customers on proper cultural practices to control the environment in your lawn so its unfavorable for a disease to occur.
Q. My lawn has a fungus problem and google says it is mostly caused by a lack of nitrogen in my soil. Is Go Green applying the proper amount?
A. Go Green uses a science-based fertilization regiment designed to deliver the proper amount of nutrients to meet the needs of your lawn. We apply fertilizer at a rate that will build thick & healthy lawns, and we monitor our product usage very carefully. There are many sources on the internet that do not make the distinction between Available Nitrogen and nitrogen that is in the soil, but not yet available for uptake.
Q. The snow melted and I have trails all over my lawn. What caused this and what should I do?
A. This was caused by Voles (field mice) Simply rake up the debris and the lawn will fill-in naturally in just a few short weeks.
Q. The snow melted and my grass is white and matted down. What should I do?
A. Your lawn has Snow Mold. Gently rake to lift-up the grass and allow air to flow under the grasscanopy to dry out the mold. The lawn will recover with warmer temperatures.
Q. Why do I have broadleaf weeds in my lawn after my 1st application?
A. The first application was a dormant feeding of granular fertilizer. Temperatures were not warm enough to allow weeds to emerge so there were no weeds present to spray. Now that weeds have emerged we will be there soon to apply a blanket treatment of weed control to the entire lawn.
Q. Why do I still have weeds in my lawn after receiving my 2nd application a couple weeks ago?
A. Chances are that your lawn has Veronica Speedwell. This is a very common weed in the springthat is difficult to control. This is a Winter Annual weed that will die-off on it's own when we getsummer-like temperatures.
A. Your lawn could have Woodsorrel, Wild Violets or Ground lvy. These weeds are very difficult to control in the spring & summer. These weeds are much easier to control in the fall. However, the Wild Violets and Ground lvy could take multiple seasons to eradicate. We will apply a blanket treatment of weed control at the proper time to control these difficult weeds. Our applicators record the type of weeds that are in your lawn during each visit. Check the back of the invoice to see if these weeds are listed.
